GOAT STORY's coffee of the year In the Huila region, on the El Diviso farm, three young producers are chasing something most coffee farms never touch. Nestor Lasso runs the operation with his brother Adrian and their friend Jhoan Vergara, pushing an already rare varietal — Ombligon, named for its distinctive "belly button" shape — through an experimental multi-stage fermentation most roasters have never even heard of. The result earned it our Coffee of the Year title, and one sip explains why. What it tastes like: Grape, lemongrass and basil, layered over a medium, sparkling body. It's an unusual, almost herbal-fruit combination — bright but full, delicate but punchy and nothing like a typical Colombian cup. Why we love it: Ombligon is grown by almost nobody, and processed like this by even fewer. Nestor's method — oxidation, anaerobic fermentation with recirculated cherry leachates, and a thermal shock to seal it all in — pulls flavors out of the bean that shouldn't exist in a Colombian coffee. It's proof that this new generation of producers is rewriting what's possible from a single farm in Huila. Best way to drink it: It shines as filter coffee (especially pour over) where the grape-lemongrass notes have room to unfold. As espresso be prepared for an explosively intense cup. But our secret tip is definitely cold drip or cold brew.